By leeiApril 2, in E39 Since changing the rad a couple of weeks ago I cant seem to get the auxiliary pump to work so I can bleed the system. The plug is connected and the temp set at 32 but it won't run.
I did think that it may be because of the low temperatures we've been having but its 12 degrees now and still no go. No one got any info on the pump?BMW E60 530 528 525 Water pump Turtorial
I assumed that it should run once you turn the heating up to 32 degrees. Tried that but it still doesn't seem to be working.
I would have thought with the temperatures warming up now that it should be running. Anyone know how much they are in case I need a replacement?
I'm sure the aux fan comes on to supply additional cooling so maybe it's not warm enough to activate it. The Original post is about the auxilliary water pump. It should run with the ignition on, the IHKA fan on and temp set at max, if it doesn't then either you don't have an aux coolant pump, or it's not working for some reason.
Mine had sprung a leak so I took it off the car to repair it. Hmmmm, I think I'll whip it off at some point. I did man handle it bit when I changed the rad so it may have come unplugged. Ps: We are talking about the same pump aren't we?
I'm sure mine only has one plug. Circled in the picture below. What is this pump used for and does it need to be connected??? I have just replace oil filter seal and fan shroud noticed when replacing everything that I had a spare plug??? My lad then says about this plug on "the pump" never was plugged in So we plugged it in and it kindly bleed the water through lol I had the temp up to 32 and fan on screen full power and it pumped away ignition on stage I then disconnected it thinking it was a clever idea from BMW to bleed the cooling system Now I read this thread Now very confused as to what its for now I do have in the obc thingy a setting for aux heaters????
On my i the aux pump seems to come on with the ignition and bleeding the system is very straightforward. It works on mine Does any one know the answer to this question please as in what is the pump for and does it NEED to be connected. I have unplugged mine as it has always been unplugged lol. Holy thread revival. You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Sign up for a new account in our community.
It's easy! Already have an account? Sign in here. E39 Search In. Auxiliary water pump not working. Recommended Posts.This page is for personal, non-commercial use. Many of today's modern cars utilize a standard water pump to keep their engines at a consistent operating temperature. Their single pump system circulates coolant from the radiator, through the engine block, to a heater core, and then back to the radiator.
Cooling System Complications: Auxiliary Water Pumps
However, it is common for many vehicles, especially heavy duty pick-ups to have an auxiliary water pump that will expedite the process. An auxiliary water pump is different than a single water pump in that it is an electrically controlled motor. Its primary use is circulating water by way of a bypass hose from the main coolant lines to a heater core that is used to collect heat and distribute warm air into your vehicle when the heater is turned on.
A failing auxiliary water pump will not typically keep you from driving your vehicle, it can definitely affect your comfort in the winter and in severe cold conditions. If not repaired or replaced, it could be dangerous to drive if the pump is failing or has completely failed.
There are a few common warning signs that you should be aware of that might indicate a problem with your auxiliary water pump exists and that it has reached the end of its service life. Since it is the primary job of an auxiliary water pump to supply hot coolant to the heater core, it seems obvious that the first symptom of a problem with this component would be no hot air blowing from the heater. The auxiliary water pump moves hot water or coolant that has recently circulated through the engine block to the heater core.
However, when the pump is not working, due to an electronics failure or the motor of the auxiliary pump being broken, the heater core will not be able to heat up. If this does not occur, it's impossible for hot or warm air to enter the cab of your vehicle. When you turn on the heater and notice that no hot or warm air is blowing into the cab of your car, truck or SUV, you should contact a mechanic to inspect this problem.
Note: your engine needs to be at operating temperature in order for the heater core to develop enough heat to blow into your cab. Wait for the engine to warm up before calling the mechanic in this instance. The auxiliary water pump is a consistent flowing device that circulates warm coolant into the heater core — regardless of how fast your engine is running.
Because of this fact, if you set a temperature on the thermostat control if your car has oneit should remain solid. If you notice that the temperature inside your vehicle seems to increase or decrease based on your driving, especially if you notice a temperature decrease when the vehicle is idling, this could be caused by a faulty auxiliary water pump.
Contact a mechanic to inspect the water pump or the heater core to see if there is damage to this component. Windows tend to fog up when the temperatures outside are very cold or if there is excess humidity inside of the car.
To defog or defrost the windshield, vehicle owners will turn on the windshield defrost button, where warm air from the heater core will blow onto the windshield so you can clearly see outside and drive safe. This application is powered by hot water that is supplied by the auxiliary water pump in many vehicles.
If you turn the defroster on and the windows don't defrost rather quickly, it's possible that you have a broken auxiliary water pump. The auxiliary water pump is typically located at the rear of your engine, where the main water line splits to supply the heater core with recently heated coolant.
On rare occasions, the auxiliary water pump will experience an electrical problem where the pump runs faster than it should or will continue to run after you've turned the engine off.If it is a cold heater problem then most likely the fault will be with the thermostat.
If it is an overheating problem then you probably still have the original plastic water pump impeller which may have sheared off. They may be sticking. Ah, looking on the above website, if your car has a sperate radiator from expansion tank then you may very well have a separate aux pump. If the expansion tank is integral with the radiator I would be suprised if you do have an aux pump. If you had the optional extra latent heat accumulator, working on the cooling system becomes a nightmare as the system requires to be filled and bled very differently.
I'm failry sure from memory that the Haynes book of parodies shows you a picture of the aux pump under the radiator.
BMW 5-Series (E39; 1996-2003) fuses and relays
Could be that you have this latent heat accumulator and hence have the aux pump. New Posts. Members Profile. Post Reply. Hi guys - having problems with my heater and the garage says its down to the aux water pump.
Its a 97 E39 Can anyone tell me where exactly the aux water pump is and what it looks like? If your car has an aux water pump then this will be fitted below the radiator. My E39 did not have one. I thought the aux pumps were only fitted the to M52 TU engined i. Be exclusive and drive a Petrol 5 Series!
Yeah - I thought I didnt have one, but I took the car to an Indy that specialises in bmws - they seem convinced that its the aux water pump. I was hoping to get an idea of what it looks like and where it is, just to double check that its there. My aircon does have the REST functionality, which I think suggests that it does have an aux pump - but Im open to correction. The heater is always cold, thats the problem, but the car engine temp gauge rises to the 12 position and doesnt budge, which suggests that the thermostat is ok.
They said the heater valves are fine - I left them a new heater valve part to install and they came back to me saying that it wasnt the heater valve but the aux water pump. As mentioned, I thought the aux pump was a 98 onwards feature, which is why I doing a bit of research. Should I have the car running and then smack it with a hammer. I threw my vin into the box on realoem and it just selects what I thought 97 - not sure what i should be looking at in regards to diagrams, but both the diagrams you Andrew linked to should "no parts found" on realoem.
My expansion tank is beside the rad on the right if your looking into the engine. The pump is 12 in the second link, and maybe it's 2 in the first too, or maybe that's a valve? Had no idea E39s had this complicated 'latent heat accumulator' thingy.Built almost entirely out of plastic, the system doesn't age well.
When its components fail, they have a well-documented history of taking head-gaskets with them when the car overheats as a result of a lack of coolant or flow. The job is not particularly difficult, but it does involve a lot of steps. Take stock in all the parts that you will be removing; it will never be easier to replace things like hoses, belts, belt tensioners, fan shroud, coolant expansion tank, etc. Hot coolant is under pressure, and it can easily send you to the hospital with burns.
Make sure you have the right torque wrench see below before attempting this job. The torque values are extremely light, and over-torquing bolts by a slight margin will risk stripping the threads in the aluminum cylinder head. Then use a pair of pliers and wiggle the drain plug down and out of the radiator.
Lastly, allow the car to cool down. Once it's completely cool, remove the expansion tank cap and refill if needed. You may need to repeat the cycle fill, run, cool, fill a few times to ensure all air is out of the system.
While this process is definitely one of the more involved services for this model, completing it now will save you the headache of overheating for up to anothermiles, should everything else run smooth. Happy wrenching! Eric Seeger is a writer and editor who has a taste for wagons. All had a fifth door. Replace these with aluminum rear trailing arms to limit deflection when driving hard.
The current BMW part numbering system allows for you to identify a part in as little as 7 numbers. Almost every part for a BMW has at minimum a unique 7-digit number. When it does, handling quickly degrades. Replace it to restore the handling you've come to know and love. Sleeper cars come in all shapes and sizes. There's seemingly always that one car in your garage that you love, but it doesn't love you back.
These are 5 cars known to be a hassle that are loved anyway. This BMW i E30 is proof that turbocharging a car doesn't always make it less reliable. Here's how one BMW E30 owner found the sweet promised land. Bilstein shocks are pressurized, so no matter how many up and down motions the vehicle has, the pressure remains the same—perfect for all applications.
While this kit is called a 'BMW E90 front control arm refresh kit,' it services more than just your control arms. This kit addresses everything you should replace when you feel your control arms are. A combination of imitation and competition between auto manufacturers has bred some of the best cars of all time.Ad vertisements.
Here you will find fuse box diagrams of BMW 5-Series, and i, d, i, d, td, tds, i, i, d, i, iget information about the location of the fuse panels inside the car, and learn about the assignment of each fuse fuse layout and relay.
Open the glove compartment, turn the two clamps to the left, and pull the panel down. It is located behind the fuse box.
It is located on the floor under the lining, on the right side of the car. They are located on the right side, behind the cover. How to check the fuses? How to replace a blown fuse? Why do car fuses blow? Types of automotive fuses. Table of Contents.
Fuse box in the engine compartment. Fuse box in the glove compartment. Your exact fuse allocation scheme is located under this fusebox. Relay block in the glove compartment. Block in the footwell.
Multifunction control module, horn relay, rain sensor, transmission shift hold switch ATdata link connector DLC. Instrument panel, seat adjustment control module, airbag crash sensor, seat belt contact switch drivers side. Anti-dazzle interior mirror, alarm system in car movement control module, alarm system gradient sensor, alarm system horn. Audio unit, navigation system control module, audio unit output amplifier, audio unit CD changer, in-car monitor.For the BMW E39,model year.
Open the glove compartment and turn the two white quick-release knobs to the left. Spare fuses and plastic tweezers are located on the fuse holder. Use the plastic tweezers to remove the fuse for the accessory or equipment that has stopped working. If the fuse is burned through the metal strip will have melted and separatedreplace it with a new fuse of the same ampere rating color code. Use the handle to pull down the trim on the right wall.
A list of the fuses, their respective ampere ratings and the equipment in their circuits is provided on the rear of the side trim. Skip to content. Tags: Fuse box diagram BMW. Ignition main circuits relay. Ignition auxiliary circuits relay. Overvoltage protection relay 1.
Overvoltage protection relay 2. Transmission control module. Engine control module relay. Windscreen wiper motor relay I. Windscreen wiper motor relay II. Air conditioning condenser blower motor relay I. Air conditioning condenser blower motor relay III. Transmission control module TCM. Windscreen wiper motor relay 1. Windscreen wiper motor relay2.
Secondary air injection AIR pump relay.A Dodge Durango 4. The driver says on cold mornings the heater will blow cold during the drive to work in rush hour traffic. Your first reaction might be to install a new thermostat and inspect the heater core for a blockage. On the test drive, the system may perform great for you. The issue could be the auxiliary water pump.
This pump is not connected to the cooling of the engine. Its primary function is to circulate warm coolant to the heater core. If too little coolant is circulated, the blower fan will pull enough heat out of the coolant and cause the heater core to get cold. Coupled with the lower engine speeds, the coolant in the heater core would lose most of its heat before it passed through to the outlet.
This would cause drivers to complain about insufficient heating if they drove in stop-and-go traffic or cruised at speeds with lower RPMs.
So, adding an auxiliary coolant pump would provide enough coolant to keep the heater core warm. Mercedes then started to use these pumps on gasoline-powered vehicles like the C- and S-Class for the same purpose allowing vehicle engineers to use larger heater cores to provide better passenger comfort.
Mercedes, Audi and BMW have also used this pump as part of the automatic temperature control system to keep the cabin heated even after the driver has turned off the ignition. The system can keep the interior warm for short periods of time while the driver goes shopping or grabs a bite to eat. These pumps will show up on more and more vehicles as engines become more efficient and generate less excess heat.
Note that the auxiliary pump is not running all the time. The BCM or controlling module will control and regulate the pump using information like:. A scan tool can test the pump function in most vehicles, but it is also possible to test the system by pressing an HVAC control head button sequence listed in the service information.
The main reason why these pumps fail is age and wear of the electric motor. Like all rotating electrical devices, brushes wear and windings short.
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